- - AGRICULTURE CORE CURRICULUM - - (CLF2000) Advanced Core Cluster: AGRICULTURAL MECHANICS (CLF2400) Unit Title: WOODWORKING ____________________________________________________________________________ (CLF2403) Topic: Woodworking Hand Tools Time Year(s) 3 hours 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 ____________________________________________________________________________ Topic Objectives: Upon completion of this lesson, the students will be able to: Learning Outcome #: (I-2) - Identify and demonstrate the uses of ten different woodworking hand tools. Special Material and Equipment: Crosscut saw, rip saw, coping saw, compass saw, keyhole saw, bit brace, auger bits, hand drill, push drill, a plane, chisels, files, boards to cut References: Cooper, Elmer L. (1987). AGRICULTURAL MECHANICS: FUNDAMENTALS AND APPLICATIONS. Albany, NY: Delmar Publishers. Jones, M. M. (1955). SHOPWORK ON THE FARM. New York: McGraw-Hill. Wagner, W. H. (1987). MODERN CARPENTRY. South Holland, IL: Goodheart Willcox. Evaluation: Quiz by instructor. TOPIC PRESENTATION: Woodworking Hand Tools SAFETY IN CARPENTRY WORK* Observe the following general safety practices in doing all carpentry work. 1. Wear industrial-quality safety glasses. When the work has the possibility for eye injury, be sure to wear safety glasses. Safety glasses should have the Z87.1 log on them to assure they are industrial quality. 2. Wear safety-toed shoes. When handling heavy carpentry materials, wear safety-toed shoes to protect your feet and toes. 3. When handling carpentry materials, wear a hard flat hat or a bump cap to protect the head. 4. When handling rough carpentry materials, wear gloves. 5. When painting, insulating, or working in dusty conditions, always wear an appropriate-type respirator. 6. Work clothing should not be loose, baggy, or highly flammable. The big danger is getting loose clothing caught in power machinery. Synthetic clothing is subject to low flashpoints, which may result in severe burns. When working on carpentry jobs, avoid wearing such clothing. 7. Use correct hand tools for each job. Hold each tool correctly and use it properly. 8. Lift and carry heavy objects correctly. When lifting a heavy object, stand close to the object, bend your legs to pick up the object, then lift with your legs, not your back. 9. Work defensively to avoid falls and falling objects. 10. Practice good fire safety where fire hazards exist. Use the appropriate type of extinguisher if a fire should occur: Type A extinguishes wood and paper fires; Type B extinguishes gasoline, oils, and paint fires; and Type C extinguishes electrical fires. 11. Remove protruding nails from unused lumber. Prevent puncture injuries by removing nail hazards. SAFETY IN HAND AND PORTABLE POWER TOOL WOODWORKING* Safety Practices for Using Hand Tools The following are general safety practices for using hand tools. 1. Secure the work. Always use a clamp, a vise, or some means to hold the work. Securing the work prevents it from slipping and frees both hands to hold tools. 2. Store tools properly. When tools are not in use, store them safely. Store all sharp-edged cutting tools with the sharp edges down. 3. Keep tools clean. Keep all hand woodworking tools clean and free of oil and grease so they will not slip when in use. 4. Inspect tools before using. Tools that damaged or have broken handles should be marked unsafe. Do not use them until they have been repaired. 5. Use the correct tool for the job. Use each hand woodworking tool only for the job for which it was designed. Forcing a small tool to do the job of a large one may result in injury or tool damage. 6. Grip tools firmly. Hold hand woodworking tools--especially the hammer and wrenching bar--securely so that they do not slip and hit someone. Hold tools such as the plane with both hands. Do not wear gloves-they are bulky and make gripping tools difficult. 7. Use the correct hammer. Never use a machinist's hammer in place of a carpenter's hammer. Do not strike a hardened steel surface, such as an anvil, with a steel hammer because a small piece of steel may break off and injure someone. 8. Avoid hammers with damaged handles. Do not use hammers with broken or split handles. Make sure the handle fits tightly in the hammer head. 9. Stand in a safe location. When using a hammer or a hatchet, do not let anyone stand directly in line with the tool's path of movement. 10. Hold nails tightly. When starting a nail, hold it tightly so that it will not fly loose and hit someone. 11. Remove nails. Before using any cutting tool--including saws, wood chisels, plains, and drills--remove nails or other objects that might destroy the tool's cutting edge. 12. Keep cutting tools sharp. Sharp tools insure the best results and the safest operation. 13. Cut away from the body. When using tools with sharp edges, always cut away from the body. 14. Use the correct screw driver. Be sure the screw-driver bit fits properly in the screw slot to prevent it from slipping and causing injury. 15. Avoid checking circuits with screw drivers. Never use a screw driver to see if electrical circuits are hot. 16. Be careful when gluing. Read labels on containers to check for harmful fumes and highly flammable glues. Safety Practices for Using Portable Power Tools The following are general safety practices for using portable power tools. 1. Obtain the instructor's permission. Obtain permission before using any portable power tool. 2. Protect your eyes and face. When using portable power tools, wear industrial-quality safety glasses or a safety shield. 3. Wear proper clothing. Do not wear loose-fitting clothing or jewelry that can get caught in moving parts. Do not roll up long sleeves. 4. Protect your hair and scalp. Pull back long hair in a band or a cap to keep it from getting caught in tools. 5. Know the tool. Read the operator's manual to learn the tool's applications and limitations as well as its potential hazards. 6. Use a respirator. Use a filter-type respirator in dusty conditions. 7. Avoid electrical shock. Be sure each tool has a three-blade grounding-type plug or is double insulated. Avoid using power tools in damp or wet places without standing on a dry board. Wear rubber gloves and boots for outdoor jobs. 8. Keep the work area clean. Keep the floor free of scraps and oil. Cluttered work areas and benches invite accidents. 9. Work only at operating speed. Do not use a power tool before it has reached operating speed or while it is coming to a stop. Never force a tool by applying too much pressure. 10. Never stop moving parts abruptly. Once a tool has been turned off, allow it to coast to a stop. Never force the tool into stock to stop it. Be sure the tool has come to a complete stop before laying it down. 11. Unplug tools properly. Unplug each tool from the power source after use and when you service or change accessories in a safe place when not in use. 12. Store unused accessories. Store tools and accessories in a safe place when not in use. 13. Use both hands. Use both hands to hold and guide saws and drills. 14. Stand in a safe location. To avoid being hit if the tool kicks back, do not stand directly behind the equipment. _____________________ * Reprinted by permission of Interstate Publishers, Inc., from MODERN AGRICULTURAL MECHANICS, 2nd ed., by Stanley R. Burke and T. J. Wakeman. Copyright 1992 by Interstate Publishers, Inc. A. Using Hand Saws 1. Crosscut Saw a. A crosscut saw is used to cut across the grain of a board and can be identified by its teeth, which are filed to a point. b. To cut across the grain of a board, perform the following steps: 1) If right-handed, grasp the handle with the right hand with the index finger extended along the side of the handle, which helps to guide the saw more accurately. 2) Position your body to the work so that your shoulders form an angle of about 45 to 60 degrees to the sawing direction, and your saw, right arm, elbow, shoulder, and eye are all in the same vertical plane. 3) Place the left knee on the board to hold it firmly on the sawhorses. 4) Grasp the far edge of the board with the left hand and use the thumbnail against the against the saw blade as a guide to start the cut. 5) Place the heel of the saw beside the line on the waste side and start the cut by making several backstrokes, lifting the saw on the forward strokes. 6) After the cut is started, push the saw forward while applying light, downward pressure at a 45 degree angle to the surface of the board. 7) Complete the cut using long, easy strokes without pressure on the return strokes, since the saw is designed to cut on the forward stroke only. 8) If the saw tends to go off course, twist the handle slightly while sawing to make it come back to the line gradually. 9) If the saw tends to get off square, bend the blade slightly while sawing to straighten it. 10) To finish the cut without splintering the board, complete the last few strokes slowing and without pressure on the saw while holding up the other end of the board. 2. Rip Saw a. A rip saw is used to cut along the length of the board (with the grain) and can be identified by its teeth, which are filed to a knifelike edge and number fewer per inch than a crosscut saw. b. To cut a board along its length with a rip saw, perform the above steps, but operate the saw at 60 degrees to the surface of the board instead of 45 degrees. 3. Back Saw a. A back saw is used with or without a miter box to make very accurate angle cuts in narrow boards and can be identified by it rigid metal back and very fine teeth. b. To make an accurate cross cut, perform the same steps as used with a crosscut saw or use a wooden miter box or adjustable miter box to help hold the board and guide the saw when cutting angles. 4. Coping Saw a. A coping saw is used to cut large holes and irregular, curved cuts in thin wood, and can be identified by its thin, narrow, removable blade supported by a spring steel frame. b. To cut large holes or other shapes in thin wood panels or boards, perform the following steps: 1) Drill a starter hole next to the line through the waste wood. 2) Remove the blade from the frame; insert it into the hole, and reattach it to the frame so that it cuts on the pull stroke, and is less apt to kink or break. 3) Secure the wood in a vise or hold it level on a work bench allowing it to project over the bench top. 4) Cut out the shape with long, steady, moderately slow strokes with the cut being made on the pull or downstroke depending on the position of the wood. 5) Cut as far as the frame will allow, then turn the blade a quarter turn in the frame and continue to saw until the frame stops the cut again. 5. Compass and Keyhole Saw a. A compass saw and a keyhole saw are used to cut wood starting from a hole in the wood, and can be identified by their narrow, tapered blade and pistol grip handle. b. To make straight and curved cuts in wood panels and boards with these saws, perform the following steps: 1) Bore a 1-inch starter hole next to the line in the waste wood with an auger bit. 2) Secure the wood in a vise and insert the blade in the starter hole. 3) Cut along the line with the cutting edge perpendicular to the wood surface, not at angles as with crosscut and rip saws. 4) When cutting sharp curves, use short strokes with the narrow end of the blade. 5) Since these saws do not leave smooth surfaces when cutting sharp curves, do not try to cut exactly to the line, but leave about 1/16 inch to be removed with a file or spokeshave. B. Using Boring and Drilling Tools 1. Bit Brace a. A bit brace is a large crank-type handle used to turn auger bits, expansive bits, twist drills, spade bits, forstner bits, countersinks, and reamers for boring holes (1/4 to 2 inches) in wood. b. To use a bit brace to bore wood with an auger bit, perform the following steps: 1) To start the auger bit on the mark or center hole, guide the bit point with one hand, knuckles down against the wood, and exert slight pressure on the head of the brace with the other hand. 2) While maintaining pressure on the brace head, turn the brace handle with the free hand keeping the bit perpendicular to the surface. 3) Check to make certain the auger bit is boring square by sighting from two directions or by using a square against the bit and the surface. 4) Lean on the top of the brace slightly to change the direction of the boring if it is not square. 5) To prevent splintering when boring entirely through a board, stop when the point of the bit starts to poke through, then turn the board over and finish the bore from that side. 2. Hand Drill a. A hand drill is a tool with gears that turn a bit much faster than its handle turns, but with reduced turning power allowing it to drill holes only up to 1/4 inch diameter in wood. b. To drill holes in wood with a hand drill, perform the following steps: 1) Place the bit on the mark perpendicular to the surface; push with a light, even pressure against the handle, and turn the crank with a steady, moderate speed. 2) A wooden dowel can be placed on the bit as a depth gauge if holes of uniform depth are required. 3) When drilling entirely through a board, release some of the pressure on the bit as it starts to break through to prevent splintering. 3. Push Drill a. A push drill, or automatic drill, is used for rapidly drilling holes (up to 3/16 inch) for installing screws, and is identified by its spring-loaded, spiral-shaped shaft that turns clockwise when the handle is pushed down. b. To drill screw starter holes in wood with a push drill, perform the following steps: 1) Place the bit on the mark perpendicular to the surface of the wood. 2) Push on the handle with one hand to impart a forward rotary motion to the bit. 3) Release the pressure on the handle allowing it to extend, imparting a backward rotary motion to the drill bit. 4) Pull the bit out of the hole when the hole is the desired depth. C. Using Shaping Tools 1. Plane a. A plane is used to shave wood in order to obtain a smooth surface, and comes in different lengths. b. To adjust a plane, perform the following steps: 1) Turn the plane upside down and sight along the bottom of the plane from front to rear to verify that the blade is projecting through evenly and no more than 1/32 inch. 2) If adjustments are required, turn the depth-adjusting nut until the blade projects about 1/32 inch, and move the lateral adjusting lever until the blade extends through the throat evenly at both corners. 3) Make a trial cut and readjust the plane, if necessary, until it cuts smoothly and produces a thin, semi-transparent curl of wood with each stroke. c. To plane a wood surface, perform the following steps: 1) Secure the board on the bench and stand to the left of the work with feet apart and with the left foot slightly forward. 2) Hold the plane with the left hand, palm down, on the knob and the right hand grasping the handle. 3) Plane with the grain of the wood from one end of the board to the other end without stopping. 4) At the beginning of each stroke, press down hard on the knob, and as you push the plane forward gradually shift more weight to the left foot. 5) Toward the end of each stroke, reduce the pressure on the knob and press down hard on the handle. 6) Always lay the plane on its side when the job is over in order to keep the cutting edge from being dulled. 7) Check the board with a straight edge. 2. Chisel a. A chisel is used to shave wood in recessed areas, and is available in widths ranging from 1/8 to 2 inches. b. To chisel wood with the grain, perform the following steps: 1) If possible, secure the wood in a vise in order to leave both hands free to use the chisel. 2) Guide the chisel with the left hand, and push the handle forward with the right hand. 3) Always keep both hands behind the cutting edge and push the chisel away from you. 4) To make the chisel blade cut easier, give it an oblique cutting edge by holding the handle slightly to one side, or by moving the handle from side to side. 5) Push the chisel with the bevel down for rough cuts and with the bevel up for finishing cuts. c. To chisel wood across the grain, perform the following steps: 1) Push the chisel with the bevel up, except on wide boards where the chisel cannot reach the center. 2) Raise the handle just enough to make the blade cut. 3) To avoid splintering the edges, cut across the board partway from one side and partway from the other side. 4) A mallet may be used to drive the chisel for heavy chiseling or roughing cuts. 3. File a. A file is used to smooth edges and shape wood to odd shapes, and may be flat, half-round, round, square, or triangular. b. To dress down and smooth rough cuts on boards, perform the following steps: 1) A file with a sharp tang should never be used without a handle. Install a handle if necessary. 2) Hold the file handle in the right hand and guide the file with the left hand. 3) Push the file lengthwise along the board, never across the edge of the board. 4) Since the file teeth cut only when pushed forward, apply pressure on the forward stroke only. 5) Lift the file off the wood on the return stroke. 6) If the file teeth become clogged with sawdust, clean them with a wire brush or file card. _________________________________________________________ ACTIVITY: 1. Practice cutting, drilling, and shaping wood with ten different hand tools. 2. Cut, drill, and shape wood to be used in an ongoing wood project, such as a toolbox or sawhorse. _________________________________________________________ 6/20/91 OLR/tf #%&C